Custom Watercooling Build Tips
So your parts have arrived and its build time but where do you start? Let’s run through the checklist if there is anything you do not have either go to your local hardware store to try to source the parts or order them online! It means a delayed build but will be worth it after all, your can’t build anything if you forgot a vital PC water cooling component.
Table of contents
Custom Build Checklist
Everything marked with an asterisk is optional.
- CPU / GPU* / RAM Blocks*
- Water Pump
- Reservoir
- Tubing
- Appropriate number of barbs
- Tubing clips if your are not using compression fittings
- Mole grips
- Screwdrivers
- Flexi-tube cutter
- Thermal Paste such as Artic Silver 5
If you mentally checked yes to all of the above, let’s get started.
Watercooling Loop Order
One of the most asked questions even amongst the pros is what is the best water cooling loop order? The truth is that temperatures throughout the loop will only vary +/- 1*c at any one time and will not make or break a record-breaking overclock. My advice has always been to set it up however it looks best with one exception –
The only requirement when you are constructing your loop is to make sure the reservoir is feeding the pump (and positioned above), not only will it make bleeding the system easier but it will prolong the life of the pump.
A dry pump is a dead pump!
Leak Testing
Leak testing may seem like a tedious, unnecessary step after all you fastened up your compression fittings or jubilee clips as tight as they will go – “It can’t possibly leak” but trust me when I say those are the famous last words.
When you first build the loop do it inside the case. Then once completed remove all the components and use the paper clip PSU trick to get the water pump running directly without anything else plugged in.
Even after you have leak tested and put your components in, it is always wise to monitor the situation, pad barbs and the top of graphics cards with kitchen paper and make sure no further leaks have appeared. When moving tubing around sometimes it can dislodge the barb and make it loose resulting is a small leak that over time gets worse and worse – be safe and double-check everything.
Do things up tight but don’t overdo it!
A mistake plenty of people have made before and only applies to leucite top cooling blocks and reservoirs.
If you over tighten your barbs, there is a huge possibility that you may end up cracking your CPU block or reservoir, it is easily done so take your time.
When using compression fittings remember to allow some give for when you are securing your tubes into place, as you tighten them up the barbs will slightly tighten as well.
Use the correct screws for your radiator
Using the correct screws is so important when fixing your fans onto your radiator, if the screws are to long its possible to puncture the radiator and cause a leak.
Many manufacturers have moved cooling lines further in as well as putting blanking plates below the screws to stop this from happening but if you are on a budget many radiators do not factor this into their design.
Don’t neglect case airflow
Never underestimate the power and importance of quality airflow through the case. It does not just apply to people cooling on with air alone but to us watercooler’s as well, airflow is vital to keeping temperatures down and stable.
Even if you are cooling all the components in your case they will still generate heat. Heat is going to build up in the case (and around your radiators) increasing the ambient case temperature reducing the cooling efficiently of your radiator.
Take your time bleeding the system
Bleeding your water cooling system takes patience and can often be frustrating but getting every air bubble out of the loop but it’s an essential step if you want consistent temperatures.
It’s not uncommon for there to be a +/- 10*c temperature difference between cores if there is air trapped in the loop, or there is not enough (or too much) thermal compound.
There are a few tips that can help bleed your loop easier and reduce the beads of sweat accumulating on your brow. Bleeding your water loop does not have to be a stressful experience if you are pre-armed with some tips!
- Always make sure the reservoir is feeding the water-cooling pump and is not letting any air into the pump
- Turning the pump off and on periodically will allow the smaller bubbles to become bigger bubbles that help to flush through easier
- When the loop is 3/4 full, gently rock your PC case back and forth to dislodge air bubbles
- Squeezing the tubes and releasing helps build up extra pressure in the system helping to flush it through
- Smile, it’s proven to release happy chemicals in our brain that combat stress!
[nexstpage title=”Custom PC Watercooling: Putting it all together”]
Putting your custom PC water cooling loop together for the first time can seem like a daunting thing but it is not and quite straight forward when you know how. As with all things, organization is the key.
Step One: Assemble Blocks & Add Fittings
Depending on what water block you bought you may or may not have construct it. My EKWB Supreme-HF come pre-constructed for me however, it did come with instructions so you can do it yourself just in case you need to clean it in the future.
When attaching your barbs, make sure they all include their rubber washers. Sometimes they go astray in the manufacturing process if one is missing there is a high chance the loop is going to spring a leak.
Step Two: Attach Cooling Blocks
Before rushing ahead and putting everything in the case, it’s always handy to attach the brackets and the CPU block to the motherboard (and other components if applicable). Your knuckles do end up feeling the full extent of the cases wrath if you try to attach them when the motherboard is already mounted. It also allows you to evenly fasten the CPU block to the motherboard resulting in a perfect thermal compound application.
Step Three: Mount the Radiator
If you have a slimline radiator such as Hardware Labs Black-ice 2 stealth then this step is most properly not as important for you but if you have a really thick radiator, it can be a fiddly to get the motherboard it mounted especially if you are mounting it on the inside top of your case.
Go ahead and get that bad boy mounted!
Step Four: Install the reservoir & Pump
Depending on what reservoir and pump you bought, they may or may not be combined. You’re job now is to get the pump and reservoir both secured into place, visually plan where your tubes will go and try not to have them extend across the case.
It reduces the flow in the system and takes longer for cool water to return to the CPU.
IMPORTANT! If you are using a 5’25 drive bay reservoir, make sure to leave yourself enough clearance to fill it up
Step Five: Install Components into the Case
With all the bulky stuff installed in the case now is a great time to install all of your components, don’t worry about tubing that is the next step!
Step Six: Cutting Tubing to Size and Fasten in Place
If you are using acrylic tubing, take your time it is not forgiving if you cut your tubing too short not only do you waste money but the immense time you spent heating and bending the tubing.
Step Seven: Bleed & Leak Test
Remember the tip before about how important leak testing is? I will say it just one more time – Don’t skip this step.
Remove your PC components out of the case and gently rest them on an anti-static bag on top of your motherboard box for now. Fill up the reservoir and use the paperclip trick start the pump, remember to keep the reservoir high in the loop and make sure no air enters the loop.
You may need to turn the pump on and off a few times to force air through the system, it allows all the smaller bubbles to accumulate into bigger bubbles allowing them to pass through the loop easier.
When the pump stops making a gurgling sound, the watercooling loop is full, but it still helps to rock the case gently to move any stubborn bubbles.
Step Eight: Final Build
So 24 hours have passed, and no leaks have sprung, great news! You can now put your PC components back into your case, add thermal compound to CPU and secure the block in place.
Remember even after you have leak tested and put your components in its always wise to monitor the situation for an hour.
Make sure all your barbs are tight and not freely moving around it’s still possible to dislodge barbs.
Take Home
There is a lot to learn initially when your start out water cooling but once you have done it once it’s easy to do it again. With the above PC water cooling guide you should now know enough to go and build you’re own just remember:
- Research, research, research – it will pay off in the end
- Only use distilled water in flexi-tubing systems
- Never skip leak testing
- Don’t mix different metals in the watercooling loop
- Strike the right balance between radiator FPI and size
- Take your time, don’t rush
Do you think I missed something out of this custom water cooling guide? Let me know in the comments and I will make sure I get it amended right away.
Don’t forget to come and show off your custom water cooling builds in the comments section below.
